Friday, January 29 — Meeting the expats in Cuenca

Expat meeting, Eucaliptos Cafe

We have now been in Cuenca for over a week and have not encountered many foreigners although we know they are here!  We have been told that there are 2 meeting places on Friday evenings — Cafe Eucaliptos and Zoe’s.  We had checked out both locations earlier in the week and have discovered that they are grand restaurants. Thursday evening we dined at Zoe’s pretty much on our own.  I think that perhaps we were too early for the local crowd.

Friday evening about 5:30 we made our way to Cafe Eucaliptos, not really missing our fellow expats but more wanting to bend an ear or two to find out what their take is on the area.  We have been trying to find out what if any ‘organized’ social events there might be for the expatriate community.

Coming from Ajijic, Mexico where there is so much going on, we wondered if the same might be true in Cuenca. Apparently not. There are about 400-500 foreigners living in the area and from what we can gather they keep pretty much to themselves aside from meeting at either Zoe’s or Eucaliptos on Friday evenings for a bit of a chat.

From the conversations I had, it appears that nobody has really thought about it. But giving rise to the thought many were intrigued by the thought of “if you build it, they will come”.  Most of the people we spoke with are new residents to the area and very busy just getting settled in.  One wonders though what they will do with their time once the settling in phase is over.  There is only so long that you can walk the streets every day. Life is an adventure for sure, but perhaps there is more?

Saturday, January 30 – Cuenca

Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception

This morning’s agenda was to take a tour of the churches and museums hosted by Cuenca Tourism. We made our way to Calderon Park expecting to see a gathering of people for the tour. Either we were too early, too late or nobody showed up. So, we decided we would do this on our own. Armed with map and tour book we headed out to the first church on the list which is just across from the ‘new cathedral’ (La Concepcion Immaculada).

El Sagrario

Construction on the main cathedral began in second half of the 1880s by Bishop Miguel Leon. In 1967, the New Cathedral (as it is known in Cuenca) obtained its current structure, consisting of several architectural styles like the great domes covered in blue tile from Czechoslovakia, the frontal rosette, the baldachin (carved in wood and covered in gold leaf) and the beautiful decorative window works of the lateral pavilions made by Guillermo Larrazabal.

The ‘old cathedral’ is El Sagrario.  Hopefully before we leave Cuenca on February22 we will be able to step inside. This is the most important historical building in Cuenca, built by the Spaniards in 1567.  At the beginning this was the Spanish Parish and became a cathedral at the beginning of the 19th Century.  The church has recently been restored to create a religious art museum. Unfortunately every time we have passed, this church has been closed.

Well, the tour got side tracked because as we crossed Calderon Park we heard the sound of a marching band. Of course, our curiosity was peaked and we just had to find out what was happening. Following the sound we saw a parade honoring local schools marching down the street. The participants all appeared very serious in playing their drums and chimes. This might be explained by the fact that their teachers were marching directly behind them!

Santo Domingo

After about 30 minutes we decided to continue our tour wending our way to San Alfonso which was built in 1875. Its style combines tendencies toward Gothic architecture. It has three wooden carved doorways at the front. Oil paintings of religious themes date back to the 18th century.

Last on our stop this morning before heading to breakfast at the Kookaburra was Santo Domingo which was built in 1906 and took 20 years to finish. Its measurements and the important structure of its twin towers make it the second biggest church in Cuenca.  The church is dedicated to the Virgin of Rocio or “Morenita del Rosario” as she is known by locals.

Great breakfast of an omelet with fine herbs and tomatoes with pesto, strong coffee and a good chat with Donna & Jason from Arruba who arrived two weeks ago and have purchased a property on the edge of Cuenca.  That is how things happen here!  We fall in love and stay.

Architectural samplings of Cuenca

Calderon park and Cathedral Immaculate Conception

I think we have only begun to discover the architectural beauty of this city.  Ecuadorians consider it the most beautiful city, a most peaceful and relaxing setting. One of the first things you notice when entering the city is the magnificent skyline marked by shining church domes.

It is the biggest structure in the historical center of Cuenca.  Its façade stands out since it is built in red marble, completed with brick, looking classy.  In its construction style the Renaissance eclectics are blended for their form in “H”, very evident, and with Gothic touches which stand out mainly by the circular window works that adorn its enormous façade.

Altar in Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception

Its great size prevails and it stands out visible, in the pleasant atmosphere of the “Abdón Calderón” Park.  It has three domes which almost reach 50 meters high. The three pavilions inside its structure can hold more than 10.000 people.

Inside the church some attractive objects can be admired such as “the Rosette” that is an enormous window work, in round form, in the front of the church; the baldachin that constitutes the main attractiveness inside the church is constituted of wooden art bathed on gold leaves.

The main imposing altar is covered with an enormous marble work, of 4 meters long, which rests on 12 columns worked in brass. This church was completed in 1967, as part of the “New Cathedral” as people recognizes it.  The Cathedral is located on Benigno Malo and Mariscal Sucre Streets.

Cost of Living, Part 1

Almuerzo (Complete lunch for $2.00 USD)

We have now been in Cuenca a week and have done a lot of touring of our neighbourhoods.  We have noticed that we can easily have a very good, inexpensive meal in many parts of town. Yesterday we stopped in at El Nuevo Paraiso for lunch (almuerz0) which is a real deal just about any where in town.  We ordered a salad plate and a dish called “Primavera” which consisted of rice, vegetables in a curry sauce. Plus beverages. All of that came to a total of $3.30 USD AND was far too much food for the two of us. So we ate what we could and carried the rest home for another meal either later in the day or the next day.

While we were wondering around town I decided to take note of prices of appliances, electronics, computers, haircuts, etc.  Here is a list of what I noted:

Appliances:   Fridges $800 USD plus; Stoves $600 USD plus, some as low as $300 for smaller units; Washing Machines — Samsung with extractor for $777 USD; Dryers $1100 USD plus

Computer Equipment:  DV4 Laptop $1050 USD plus;  ACER Laptop $430 USD; Gateway $723 USD; Compaq $567; Kingston Data Travellers compare well with Ajijic at $18.92 for 2GB, $24.19 for 4 GB and $42 for 8 GB.

Important stuff like Magnum Ice cream bars: $1.25 to $1.50 (I pay $40 pesos in Ajijic!).  Popsicles for $0.15, Conettes for $1.00, Helado Casero $0.10 (homemade ice cream).

Men’s Haircut costs $2.50. Hair colour (Nutrisse) is expensive at $8.55

Handcrafted leather shoes for $15 USD

I dropped into a shoe store where they manufacture leather shoes on site.  A pair of ladies’ dress shoes cost $15 USD.  You will find that Cuencans tend toward leather shoes as opposed to sports shoes.

Fruits & Vegetables in the 9 de Octubre market

I think I mentioned the other day that fresh fruits and vegetables abound in the markets. Yesterday we purchased a pound of strawberries for $1.00 USD; 5 avocadoes for $1.00 (or $0.20/each). Cherries cost $2.00 a pound and are in high season at the moment.  You can easily find broccoli, cauliflower, a variety of lettuces, potatoes of different varieties. Shrimp for $3.00 a kilo.

Cuenca Apartment

Entrance to Posada Todos Santos on Calle Large

When we arrived in Cuenca we had reservations at Posada Todos Santos which is a delightful place to stay. The cost is $10 USD/person (so $20 for the 2 of us). For an extra $2.00 you could have a wonderful breakfast prepared for you by Soledad.  The manager, Fernando speaks very good English and is very accommodating in giving directions to what to see and do in Cuenca. This gave us a very good step up in finding our way around.

But we knew that what we really wanted to do was to find an apartment where we could experience daily life as if we were actually living here, rather than being a tourist. OK… I know we still are but it is definitely different when you have your own space.

The next morning we dropped into the Kookaburra Restaurant for breakfast and a chat with the owners, Chris & Jenny.  They had already started scouting out contacts for us and had a list of phone number when we arrived. In the meantime, we saw a listing for “Se Arrienda” (for rent) on an apartment building facing the Rio Tomebamba.  I called the number from the cell phone I received from Tim Welch just before my departure (what a gift that has been!)  only to discover that the apartment had just been rented. “BUT, said the voice at the other end of the line, my friend has an apartment just north of the cathedral.”  Serendipity.  I called Gustavo and left a message. He returned my call almost immediately and by 11:00 that morning (day 2 of our stay in Cuenca) we had a studio apartment.

It is small but comfortable with all the amenities we were looking for.  Modestly equipped kitchen, living room area, kitchen table, a comfortable bed and lots of hot water in the shower. The best part is the mirador which is pretty much ours as the other residents in the building seldom, if ever, go up there.

The view overlooking the city is quite remarkable and we can see the 9 churches scattered around the historic center. We are within 6 easy blocks to Calderon Park and have the joy of easily walking everywhere we wish to go. And then there are the city buses. For $0.25 you can go long distances.  And so yes, life is good here in Cuenca.

The apartment cost $275 USD per month, including Telephone, internet, Cable TV with lots of English-speaking channels, electricity.  We have purchased a few things for the kitchen which we will leave here for whoever follows after us.

Now here is a thought… what if we could keep the apartment on a long term rental and make it available for others who are reading this blog and may wish to follow?? Hmmm, interesting thought?

Skyline from our rooftop overlooking Cuenca

Sunday, January 24 — Cuenca es Fiesta!

What a day Sunday was for us here in Cuenca. The city has started a Patrimonial Festival that runs for the next two weeks over Thursday thru Sunday.  For those of you who are following my postings on Facebook, I launched a number of photos from this past Sunday. Here I’ll only be able to post some highlights. But if you want more photos, either visit my Facebook page OR let me know and I can email you the photos.

There are over 50 churches and monasteries, many of them museums, in Cuenca, as well as beautiful gardens, a famous handicraft market and other cultural museums. We missed the Museum and Church tour on Saturday, but are happy to know that it will be repeated on Saturday January 30th and it is on my calendar of things to do.

Bohemia Dance Troupe from Gualaceo

But we did not miss out on the exquisite patrimonial concert at Calderon Park on Sunday morning.  We arrived at about 11:00 just before Bohemia Cualaceo Dance Troupe started. What fun it was to walk through the park and watch family activity.  There was a large crowd gathering to watch the performance. We had no idea what to expect and certainly were not disappointed.

Next followed a presentation of “Jukumari”, a very common folktale, of which there are different versions, in Bolivia, Peru and perhaps also Ecuador.

Legend of "Jukumari"

This tale of the Jukumari is as follows: Once there was a bear who fell in love with a young shepherdess, and finally one day he took her to his cave. There they had a baby son. But, when she sees some people go by, the shepherdess begins to feel sad and yearn for her people. The bear becomes jealous and closes the entrance to the cave with a rock. The son promises his mother that he will move the rock when he’s bigger. And so, one day, the son moves the rock aside and the two of them leave the cave. In the world outside, the young son of the bear and the shepherdess has many adventures, in which he demonstrates an immense courage and superhuman strength. Then one day his mother is on the verge of death and she urges him to fetch his father, but she dies before her son can leave. Then the son is re-united with his father and the two of them live happily, until the father also dies. Then the son buries his father’s body in the same grave in which his mother is buried, and there the two bodies intertwined and made a beautiful tree appear. In this tree’s shade, lovers who have lost their loved one find solace and their hearts grow vigorous once more.

Cuenca — Settling In

Commerce building, first bank in the province of Azuay

It has been almost a week now since we arrived in Cuenca and we’ve done a lot of exploring! This is a great city in which to walk.  Especially in the Historic Center.

Bapu Sharwma Restaurant on Calle Larga

There is an abundance of restaurants catering to any kind of food you desire.  Arden and I have noticed that it is the first city we’ve been in together where there are so many Vegetarian restaurants.

But don’t be alarmed, there are lots of meat choices as well — lots of Argentinian restaurants, Indian, Sharwma, delis… restaurants on many corners.  You’ll never go hungry.

Complete meal including soup, main course, dessert and drink for $2.00 USD

We have discovered the best choice is the Almeuerzo (like the Mexican Comida Corrida) where you can have a complete meal: soup, entree, dessert and beverage for about $1.50 to $2.00.  Greatvalue and lots of food. One day we even brought food home and had lots for our evening meal.

Our favorite so far is Godvinda located on Juan Jaramillo but we’re still exploring and every day turns up another gem.

We’ve located several very good markets: one of 9 de Octubre and another called Mercado 10 de Agosto. You will be amazed (Yes! even our Mexican friends) at the abundance of fresh fruits and vegetables.  We bought a bag of cherries the other day for $0.50. Avocadoes are 8/$1.00,  1/2 kilo of shrimp (large) for $3.00, Corvino — a type of white fish (very delicious) for about $2.00 a kilo.

When looking for an apartment online we found many in the range of $350-600 USD per month.

Cityscape from our rooftop

We have discovered a loft apartment for $275 per month and are quite comfortable here for our one month stay. For a longer stay we would look at one of the more expensive ones with a bedroom.  But for now this is just great!  We have our own terrace overlooking the city and that is where you will catch up as the sun goes down with our martinis or wine or beer.

Electronics appear to be more expensive here and locals tell us that cars, clothing and electronics are quite expensive. We’ll seek out more information on that during our travels.

There are lots of clothing stores. I remember when I was researching Ecuador a couple of years ago, reading that Ecuadorians are very proud of their appearance and like to be well dressed. I find that this is very true. Even the vendors in the streets take care of their appearance.

Saturday we spent the day strolling the streets of downtown area before heading off to Mall del Rio on the other side of the Rio Tomebamba which separates old town from new town.

The mall is very modern and was built about 7 years ago. Anything you cannot find in the markets you will certainly find in this mall.  On Saturday we took a taxi back from the Mall to our apartment for $2.00 which is about the average fare between the 2 districts. Anywhere in the Centro Historico we would pay $1.50, perhaps as much as $2.00 in the evening.

Will come back to this page to add photos.  But that’s all for now. Heading off for lunch!

January 19, Tuesday – Posada Todos Santos, Cuenca

Posada Todos Santos

Arriving the afternoon of January 19, we checked into the Posada Todos Santos on Calle Larga.  Our friends Derek and Rebecca from Ajijic had been there the week before us and lucky for us they referred us to this lovely Posada.  The owner, Fernando was very accommodating and helpful in orienting us to the city.

We headed off to the Kookaburra Restaurant (www.kookaburracafe.typepad.com) to meet the owners

Jenny & Chris Bluefield, Kookaburra Restaurant

Chris & Jenny Bluefield. Arden had been in touch with them prior to arrival.  They very recently opened up a restaurant on Calle Larga and also offer short-term accommodations. A good source of information for people who are new to town. They have been in Cuenca now for 2 years and so have settled in to the life here.  They are working very long hours opening up 7 days a week for breakfast at 7:00 AM.  Lots of vegetarian and wholesome selections. Hearty breakfast and good strong coffee!

As we were wondering along the streets of Cuenca that eveing we came across Pizza Roma where we had pasta dinners of Spaghetti Putanesca and Fettucine Alfredo. That coupled with our favorite beer, Pilsner was a good way to start our stay in Cuenca.

Calla Larga in front on Posada Todos Santos

January 19 — heading to Cuenca

After spending 4 great days revisiting haunts in Quito it was time to move on to Cuenca which has always been our desired destination.  We investigated various means of transport and heard varying stories about taking the bus to Cuenca.  Several cabbies told us not to take the bus because it was dangerous. We kind of discounted that because others told us it was a long tedious trip but quite safe. One cabbie told us the bus drivers were all loco. I think he wanted us to hire him to drive us to Cuenca. He would have charged us $100 USD for the trip.

What are the travel times between the major terminals in Ecuador?

Route	Time	Cost
Quito – Guayaquil	8-10hrs	~$10.00
Quito – Cuenca	8-12hrs	$9.00-12.00
Cuenca – Guayaquil	3.5-4hrs	$8.00

Cuenca is a lot further south than most think. It’s a twelve hour bus ride from Quito.  Cuenca is well connected by air as well.  So, while Cuenca is readily accessible you either need the time to travel by bus or the money to do it by air.  We opted to fly and so stopped in the local TAME office in Quito where we discovered that a one-way fare from Quito to Cuenca cost $68 USD for a 40 minute flight.

It was a good choice on our part since we plan to do a lot of busing between Cuenca and Loja during our time here with a trip to Machala, a quiet beach town that we have heard about.  From there we will fly back to Quito on March 4th before heading to Buenos Aires on the 5th.

But much more to tell in between then and now! Stay tuned for our adventures in Cuenca.

January 18, Monday — Mitad del Mundo

Monday was our last day in Quito before heading to Cuenca on Tuesday January 19th.  We decided to make the most of the day and head out to Mitad del Mundo.  Arden did a walkabout around New Town, had some breakfast while I caught up on some emails and internet work.  Then we slowly made our way over to Avenida de las Americas to catch the bus to Mitad del Mundo which is about 12 km outside of Quito. But first you have to get out of the city. Quito is very large with a population of over 2 million people so it took us the better part of 40 minutes to get the the bus terminal at the end of the Metro Trolley line before catching the bus to Mitad del Mundo.

The day was just a little overcast so great for walking and busing. People are so friendly in this city and are always willing to give directions.  If you look a little lost or confused, someone will come up to see if they can help you out.  The bus fare from Ave. del las Americas was $0.25 and then another $0.15 to Mitad del Mundo.  We had a great opportunity to see the city along the way.

Arriving at Mitad del Mundo we walked up the avenue of presidents to the original site of the “Middle of the Earth”.  Took the usual photos and then made our way over to the Museum where the GPS location of the Middle of the earth” now stands.  It is a great way to find out about being at the equator, what effect it has on gravity, strength. The interpreters also talk about the life of the native people and how living at the Equator has influenced their lives, their beliefs.

After a wonderful afternoon we completed our day with a spectacular meal at La Boca del Lobo. Great food and wine to complement the day. 

We have been delighted to discover that there are many good vegetarian restaurants in Quito and great dining has not been a problem.

Off to Cuenca!